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The Complete Japanese Joinery

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Gegyo (Case 2). Those on shrines and temples are for roofs with a steep slope, therefore when gegyo is to be used on houses, decide on the decoration which would be most appropriate. A + B are STOP CUTS across end grain just inside layout 1/16"-1/8" deep. C + D are score lines along grain direction Clothing Clothing should be comfortable to work in and made of a material that is easily washed and cleaned. It should allow for free movement of the arms and legs, since Japanese carpentry involves much physical movement, squatting and bending over. Balance and control of bodily motion are all important, so restrictive clothing would not be comfortable.

Japanese Joinery, and 6 Incredible Examples. The Ancient Art of Japanese Joinery, and 6 Incredible Examples.

When there was plentiful wood, and iron was not readily available, sashimono’s arose as a practice: carpenters in Japan developed building techniques that have made excellent use of the abundant natural resource.Japan’s deep bond with woodworking goes well beyond convenience, however. Before his death in 1990, George Nakashima, a renowned carpenter who worked with wooden joinery and author of The Soul of a Tree: A Woodworker’s Reflections, summed up this philosophy by saying, “We work with this material as an instrument, to fashion useful objects, possibly if so willed a thing of beauty. In any case, a joining of the rhythms of nature to fulfill its own destiny and ours.” Sashimono is inherently tied to this way of thinking. Its beauty is best appreciated not only through its technical specifications but also through Japan’s history. Introduction A word of encouragement: curiosity A word of caution: sharp A word to the wise: learn how to learnii) Construction sequence: Begin by planing the boards. The edges (sides) of the boards should be planed straight. Next, mark a center line on each board with the chalk line as shown in Appendix Figure 2. Place the boards on flat ground, the 6 ft. boards placed per¬ pendicular to each other, and the 10 ft. board to be placed diagonally, forming a triangle. The distances between the intersecting points of the center lines should be in a ratio of 3:4:5, as shown. When the boards are arranged in this ratio, secure them with at least 4 nails at each point. Awls or gimlets Awls, by their twisting action, can pierce holes in wood. Pilot holes are made with an awl (Figure 2.65a) to prevent nails from slipping and boards from splitting. They are also used for making holes through which wires and other thin objects are to pass (Figure 2.65b); as a countersink for recessing the head of a nail or screw (Figure 2.65c); and for boring still deeper and larger holes (Figure 265d). They are extremely handy in awkward positions and in locations where an electric drill or brace and bit is inconvenient.

Complete Japanese Joinery Paperback – Box set, 1 June 2000 Complete Japanese Joinery Paperback – Box set, 1 June 2000

The contemporary Japanese architectural vanguard has the respect of the international design community; firms like SANAA, Toyo Ito & Associates, and Sou Fujimoto Architects continue to receive significant attention in such acclaimed exhibitions as “A Japanese Constellation: Toyo Ito, SANAA, and Beyond,” now at the Museum of Modern Art, in New York. While these and other Japanese firms design structures almost exclusively out of concrete and steel, wood was the dominant construction material in Japan for centuries. Brisk industrialization and diminishing timber resources spurred the shift away from wood during the 20th century. Although many qualities of traditional Japanese architecture carry forward in current designs, a closer look at historical construction practices reveals how much has been lost.Example using suitsukisan (wood scab) and a shachisen pin. Commonly used right angle joint for the ogami of the sori hafu facia. On the inside face, install the wood scab (suitsukisan) and secure it from the top face with a pin. The pin should be installed in such a way as to pull the The best part about it is that all of it can be achieved only via using hand tools. No power tools are a necessity to create these joints, but having those definitely improves the timing in which you can create these joints. Also with hand tools, you have the control in your hands allowing for no margin of error.

Japanese Joinery For the First Time - Wood Is Wood How to Do Japanese Joinery For the First Time - Wood Is Wood

Japanese planes ( kanna) are used to make a piece of wood flat by removing thin flat sheets of the wood by pulling or pushing a blade across it. Japanese planes are similar to western style planes, except that the blade is convex, rather than flat. Japanese planes, like the handsaws, are used in a pulling motion, rather than pushing. This tool is essential to the Japanese craftsperson, some of whom will have over 100 varieties of handplane. Making the top surface the peak, slope to equal the slope of the crown on the hip rafter. The depth 2-4 dozuki are used for cuts up to 45° from the perpendicular to the grain; rip dozuki are used from this point on.

hazuchi (a special hammer) and set aligner are used (see Figures 2.25-26). First, the teeth are straightened by pounding with the hazuchi (Figure 2.27), then To set the teeth, the If you dissect Japanese joinery techniques, you can see how they use techniques similar to dovetail joints and tenon mortise joints. Though it is on a much-advanced scale where the wood just seems to slide into slots and combine like it is one piece. At times it becomes difficult to differentiate two pieces of wood that are joined with Japanese joinery. That is how snug the wood sits together with another. shown in Figure 5.24(8). Take special-care as to the amount of cut line to remove since this will affect the fit of the connection when the members are assembled.

of Traditional Japanese Wood Joinery: A Kyoto The Art of Traditional Japanese Wood Joinery: A Kyoto

Another practical method for making holes is to use a brace or gimlet as shown in Figure 5.26. By roughly boring a hole of the required size and depth with a brace or gimlet, and then squaring and finishing it with a chisel, a hole can be made quite easily. But it will give you good practice on how to use your tools efficiently. Both these projects do not require a lot of lumber either. So the cost to pull it off is also minimal, minus the tools you will need if you don’t have them already. saw horse, into the ground, or into one’s clothes. Instead, when nearing the end of the cut, it is important to slow down the sawing, holding the piece being severed with one hand, and continuing to saw gently until the cut is completed. When cutting through a piece, after a shallow cut has been made on the first side, rotate the piece away from you and continue cutting. The saw cut always advances toward you. Continuing this procedure until the piece is cut through allows a clean cut to be made, with¬ out splintering. Unlike Western sawing procedure, the piece is supported on both sides of the cut, whether on a bench or on saw horses, so that the cut end will not fall, risking tear¬ ing.Start cuts at center of mortise layout taking out a chip (Vs") moving from center cut alternating sides till hole is V2 depth from top surface. Though there is greater utilization of steel and reinforced concrete in modern structures, wood construction remains among the most important, maintaining its long tradition in Japanese architecture. Regretfully however, with the passing of time, the splendid tradi¬ tion of Japanese wood construction has become stagnant and is losing its driving force. Though it is essential for architects and builders to understand traditional Japanese wood construction, texts on the subject are woefully limited. This could be due to the dif¬ ficulties of describing and illustrating the actual woodwork, but there are other limiting fac¬ tors as well. In many cases, a wood member serves a dual purpose as a structural member and as a finished decorative piece. Also, different methods are used in each school, such as the Kennin Temple sect, Shintennoji sect, and Kyoto sect. Moreover, different methods are stressed even within the same school by such master carpenters as Hiruuchi, Kira, Kiuchi, and Tsuru. Then, there are alterations in detailing methods brought about by changes in the style of periods such as the Asuka [ca 700 A.D. - 800 A.D.], Momoyama [ca. 1550 A.D.-1600 A.D.], and Edo [ca. 1600 A.D.-1860 A.D.] periods. There are further dif¬ ferences in technique in styles such as the Karaya [Chinese style], Tenjikuyo [Indian style], Wayo [Japanese style], Shoinzukuri [study room style], Sukiyazukuri [free style], and the Chashitsu [tea room style]. Lastly, there are regional differences on such things as uchinori [inside face], tatami [straw mat], and kiwari [proportion]. It is not an easy task to incorporate all these conditions. This book was written using my own practical experience combined with information from available resources, and from documents on various methods of wood construction compiled during the time I was teaching at the Occupational Training Center. Paper or cloth wrapping In strong sunshine natural woods will burn and their surfaces will discolor. To prevent this, boards for interior use are wrapped with paper or cloth after they have been cut, planed, and chiselled. This wrapper is later removed when construction is completed. In the case of wall members, it is not removed until mud or plaster has been applied. Not only does this nailless construction result in the ability to easily repair buildings, it also makes buildings more resilient against Japan’s frequent earthquakes. The joints have more freedom to sway with the forces of the earthquake while still maintaining their integrity. While this isn’t the only technique that has kept these buildings standing after hundreds of years, it is certainly a significant factor. Similar techniques continue to be applied even in modern construction. Tokyo Skytree famously borrows concepts from traditional earthquake resistance in its design.

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